Method of making turn-shoes



UNITED PTENT OFFICE.

GEORG-E FERGUSON, 0F QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE NEW JERSEY.

METHOD Oli TJJIAKNG TURN-SHOES.

Application iled fune 7,

To all fio/0m t may concern:

Be it known that l, Gnonen FERGUSON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Quincy, in the county of Norfolk and Strate of Massachusetts, have invented certain lmprovements in Methods of Making A'lfurn- Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of turn shoes and is herein described in connection with the manufacture of a turn shoe having a rubber sole. i

lt is customary in the manufacture of a turn shoe to place wrong side out upon the first last upper material such as a lined or unlined upper and a sole, to perform certain operations upon the shoe while it is wrong side out, and then to complete the manufacture of the shoe by withdrawing the last, turning the shoe right side out, relasting it, and performing certain further operations upon it. F or convenience the manufacture will be considered as divided into two stages, the first comprising the steps which take place while the shoe is on the first last and the second comprising the steps which take place while the shoe is on the second last. Referring then to the first stage more in detail, it is customarily practised commercially in the following manner. After having been assembled on the iirst last, the shoe is presented to a pulling-over machine which tensions the upper material. about the heel and toe portions and drives temporary tacks through it into the sole. |lhe shoeis then presented to a lasting machine which tensions the upper material all the way around the last or part way around, according to the type of shoe being' made and, in either case, inserts temporary lasting tacks at intervals in the feather of the sole at the base of the sewing rib or shoulder, after which the shoe is presented in successionto a sewing machine, a tack pulling machine and a seam trimming machine. In the method thus briefly described, thepulling-cver and lasting operations, including the insertion of the temporary tacks, are depended upon to tension the upper material about the last and sole, the subsequent sewing operation serving to fasten the upper material firmly Specification of Letters Patent. Pat-,@Hpd June g1 1321.

1920. Serial No. 387,046.

under the tension determined by the pulling-over and lasting operations. In the method there are thus two separate tensioning operations both of which .involve the insertion of temporary tacks; and, after the completion of the sewing operation, these tacks are removed and the seam trimmed.

Important general objects of the present invention are to substitute one tensioning operation which corresponds to the two hitherto performed, to obviate entirely the use of tacks, and to tension the upper material prior to the sewing operation in such manner that in said operation the tension will be automatically increased. According to the present invention the upper material is tensioned about the last and sole and its margin fastened, preferably by cement, to the top of the sewing rib or shoulder. By this procedure the upper material is caused to bridge the space between the outer edge of the rib and the edge of the sole. The upper material is then attached to the sole, as by stitches, which pass through the bridging portion of the upper material and through the base of the rib so as to draw the upper material down into the corner formed i by the junction of the base of the rib with the feather of the sole. The eXtra tensioning effect thus produced on the upper material takes place automatically as the result of the manner in which the shoe is lasted and requires no eXtra attention or manipulation on the part of the operator; and, in order to facilitate the sewing operation, the dimensions of the upper material are preferably niade suoli that its ede'e extends only a short distance beyond the inner edge of the sewing rib. Referring now to the accompanying drawings,-

Figure l is a cross-section in perspective of part of a turn shoe assembled upon the first last preparatory to being lasted, said shoe comprising an upper which has no lining;

Fig. 2 is a similar view ofthe shoe after it has been lasted;

Fie. 3 is a similar view of the shoe after it 'has been lasted and sewed, and

Fig. t is a view similar to F ig. 2 but showing a shoe in which the upper is lined.

Referring first to Figs. l, 2 and 8, there is shown a turned shoe having a rubber sole,

the upper material comprising an unlined upper which is herein shown as a piece of fabric 5 and may be provided with the usual counter and boi; toe stiffeners (not shown). The sole comprises a thread portion 7 and a sewing rib or shoulder 9, the sewing rib lying between a feather ll and gutter 13 which separates the rib from the raised middle portionof the sole. T he purpose of the rib is to provide means to facilitate the sewing of the Lipper material to the sole as well as means for attaching the lasted upper material tothe sole prior to the sewing operation. With regard to this latter function, it should be noted that the rib 9 has a flat top which is comparatively broad, thus providing a considerable area of contact. The purpose of the raised middle portion l5 is to provide a filler; and the purpose of the gutter i3 is to permit` the needle of the sewing machine to pass tlirough the rib without entering any other part of the sole. ln order to facilitate the sewing operation, the dimensions of the upper material are such that when lasted over the sole it will not extend entirely across the gutter l3 but will leave a free passageway for the needle of the sewing machine.

ln the manufacture of the shoe the upper material and sole are assembled wrong side out upon a last li' and preferably placed in a lasting machine of the type'shown'in application Serial No. 220,22 filed in the name of Casgrain and owned by the same assignee as is the present application, although the lasting may be done by hand or by any suit A able machine. Cement may be applied to the inside of the margin of the upper material at this time or previously as may be desired;

or a piece of material, such as friction fabric, adhesive on both sides, may be applied to the margin. lnstead of rendering the inner Amargin of the upper material adhesive, the desired results may be obtained by coating the flat top of the rib 9 with cement or otherwise rendering it properly sticlry. rlhe lasting operation is now carried out, the upper material being tensioned about the last and sole and `its margin pressed down upon the top of the rib 9. rlfhe shoe is now ready to be sewed.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 2, it will be noted that the lasted upper material bridges the space between the outer edge 2l of the sewing rib or shoulder and the adjacent edge 23 of the sole, and that the man gin -of the upper extends only part way across the gutter 13 and does not extend over'or adhere to the raisedlmiddle portion l5 of the sole. The shoe is then sewed, preferably by a machine fitted with the usual curved needle 19. The needle passes through that portion of the upper rmaterial which bridges the space referred to above, the stitches draw this portion down against the base of the rib 9 (see Fig. 3), and this drawing action serves to put an additional ten- -sion on the upper to draw it about the last. After the manufacture of theY shoe has reached this stage, the shoe may be completed in any of the usual ways which commonly comprise pulling the last, turning the shoe, inserting a shank stiffener, relasting the shoe and attaching the heel.

Referring now to Fig. l, the same sort of sole is shown. as in Figs. l, 2 and 3. ln this figure, however, the upper material com prises an upper proper 25, herein shown as made ofl leather7 and a lining 27 which is made of fabric. rllhe upper, Vit will be noted, is of such dimensions that when in lasted position its margin extends only part way across the top of the sewing rib or shoulder, while the lining extends beyond the edge of the upper so as to adhere to that portion of the top of the rib which is left exoosed. rlhe method of drawing the upper material 25, 27 about the last and causing its margin to adhere to the rib is the same as with the unlined shoe shown in Figs. l, 2 and 3. f

Although the method has beenset forth in connection with the manufacture of a shoe having a rubber sole of a particular shape, it should be understood that the method may be practised with soles of other materials and forms.

l-laving thus described my invention, what l claim as new `and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:l

l. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises assembling wrong side out upon a last upper material and a sole provided with an upstanding rib 'spaced from the edge thereof, tensioning the upper material about the last and sole and fastening it to the top of the rib, sewing the upper to the rib by stitches which pass through the base of the rib so that, as the stitches are drawn tight, a Vfurther tension is imparted to the upper material, and subsequently turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

2. rlhe method of making a turned shoe which comprises assembling wrong side out upon a last upper material and a sole provided with a sewing shoulder spaced.y from the edge thereof, drawing theupper material about thelast, attaching it to the top of the sewing` shoulder so as to bridge the space between the edge of the shoulder and the edge of the sole, attaching the upper material to the sole by fastening means which pass through the bridging portion. of the upper material and draw it down into the corner at the base of shoulder, and subsequently turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

3. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises assembling wrong side out upon a last upper material and a sole provided with a flat-topped sewing rib spaced from the edge thereof, cementing the margin of the upper material, drawing the upper materia-l about the last and sole and pressing its margin down upon the top of the rib to cause it to adhere to the top and to bridge the space between the edge of the sole and the adjacent edge of the rib, attaching the upper material to the sole by stitches which pass through the bridging portion of the upper material and draw it down into the corner at the base of the outside of the rib and subsequently turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

el. lThe method of making a turned shoe which comprises providing a sole having aflat-topped sewing rib spaced from the edge thereof, a raised middle portion and a gutter separating the rib from the middle portion, and upper material ot' such dimensions that when lasted its margin will extend over the rib but not across the gutter, assembling the sole and upper wrong side out upon a last, tensioning the upper about the last and sole and causing it to adhere to the top or' the rib so that a portion of the upper bridges the space between the edge of the rib and the edge of the sole, attaching the upper to the sole by stitches which pass through the bridging portion of the Lipper and draw it down into the corner at the base of the rib and subsequently turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

5. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises assembling wrongl side out upon a last a sole provided with a sewing rib spaced from the edge thereof and upper material including an upper proper and a lining, the lining projecting beyond the edge of the upper, drawing the upper material about the last, causing the edge of the upper and an adjacent portion of the lining to adhere to the top of the rib and to bridge the space between the edge of the sole and the adjacent edge of the rib, attaching the upper material to the sole by stitches which pass through the bridging portion of the upper material and draw it down into the corner at the base of the rib, and subsequently turning the sole right side out and completing its manufacture.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE FERGUSON 

